BOLLYWOOD FAVOURITE
PUSHES GREAT SARI REVIVAL
New Delhi (AFP) -
As the platform heeled-models sashay past the flash of cameras to the
sound of U2, Sabyasachi Mukherjee surveys the progress of his campaign
to drag the sari from the back of the closet onto the catwalk.
Mukherjee's efforts to modernise the sari by using unusual fabrics such
as velvet while maintaining its iconic silhouette is fuelling a revival
of the traditional drape. Arguably India's most successful fashion
designer - whose brand has an annual turnover of $11 million -
38-year-old Mukherjee is passionate about the garment. Young,
career-oriented women had been pushing the sari to the back of their
wardrobe, finding them difficult to tie and unsuited to their busy
lifestyles.
Having first made a name for
himself for his mini-dresses, Mukherjee has more recently devoted his
efforts to designing pre-pleated and easy-to-tie saris that are at the
same time exquisitely embroidered. “I am a purist at heart, I like
traditional saris. But I often flirt with the sari to keep people
interested, modifying it in little ways,” he said.
After
a popular Bollywood actress strolled onto the catwalk, dressed in a
full-skirted tulle sari, a bevy of models appeared, many wearing
pre-pleated saris covered with lace appliqués and accessorised with high
heels. It is all part of an effort to attract a younger, more style
conscious clientele, Mukherjee explained. He has also made substantial
forays into Bollywood as part of his campaign to restore the garment's
supremacy in the Indian woman's closet.
In
addition to dressing leading actresses including former Miss World
Aishwarya Rai and Vidya Balan for their red carpet appearances, he has
designed costumes for several Hindi films. Mukherjee plans to open more
stores across India, where he currently has four shops, before expanding
overseas a few years down the line. According to Shefalee Vasudev, an
author and founding editor of Marie Claire India, Mukherjee is a fashion
visionary.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpS7E3jR3VVk-FmZfrPeMwm2hscUTO2xE0GNRFJMiZ1yTtLbtesjqJ0v3nyuabc8ZmRX4PGUd6eKK5Y4i3Bx6m_gwpHxCeEa6pO53dQd7_VEkFzzxzc05xAFIAqRGHnCnUQ4WWT5i416Lp/s1600/mahamantra+long.jpg)
Last
year, Sonam Kapoor, a 27-year-old Bollywood actress known for her
fashion sensibility, made headlines at the Cannes Film Festival when she
donned a polka-dot sari with a revealing back. Then Lady Gaga appeared
onstage near New Delhi in a sparkly ivory-colored sari by the Indian
designer Tarun Tahiliani. “The sari is beautiful, it is forgiving, it is
unique, and it is exotic to the whole world … I wanted to influence
Indians to go back to wearing Indian clothes,” said Mukherjee, the
award-winning Indian designer. Its appeal among Indian women revealed
that “deep in our insides we still want a piece of our mother's closet,
our grandmother's closet. We are not so comfortable with the shortest
dress, with the little black dress,” said Shefalee Vasudev, from Marie
Claire India. Keeping traditions and avoid losing the sense of decorum
and decency are the basis of social morality.
WHAT DO THE VEDIC TEACHINGS TELL US?
Tradition
includes dress-code, demeanours and flexibility or by its popular name,
social freedom, as diagnostic devices for nature, impression and
depiction of inner discipline. It describes about the subtle impact of
every inch of thought, exposure and action in character, which may not
be digestible to the fashion world. ... Unfortunately, this is branded
as a western culture, whereas it is a degraded form of global cultural
stamina, which has infected the western community. Due to continuous
engagement in scientific and economic pursuits, west has lost its
immunity in self and social control, which has made it the first and the
worst vulnerable region for ethical degradation. ... Without cultural
framework, any self styled discipline, audacity and insecure freedom
will certainly dismantle any orderly society or even an organised one.
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